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                    與愛同行

                    時間:2017-05-06 來源:原創 作者:夏拖百 閱讀:9
                      

                      與愛同行
                      
                      ——游梅里
                      
                      梅里雪山——位于云南迪慶藏族自治州德欽縣境內,當地藏民稱其為“卡瓦格博雪山”,地處滇、川、藏三省結合部,是三江(金沙江、瀾滄江、怒江)并流世界自然遺產的腹心地帶,整個雪山呈南北走向,全長150公里。它的上段稱梅里雪山、中段稱太子雪山、下段稱碧羅雪山。其中,梅里雪山國家公園總面積960平方公里,“梅里”一詞來自藏語譯音,是“藥山”的意思,因盛產各種名貴藥材而得名!疤邮濉逼骄0尉6000米以上,主峰卡瓦格博海拔6740米,是云南第一高峰,同時也是藏區八大神山之首。自1902年有登山記錄以來,共有10余支登山隊先后發起登山行動,但均以失敗告終。所以至今仍是人類未能征服的“處女峰”。也是唯一一座因文化保護而被禁攀登的高峰。它是橫斷山系中景最為秀麗的一座山峰。瀾滄江和怒江分東西兩側從雪山腳下流過,氣候變換莫測,雪峰直至蒼穹,江水深切峽谷。藏民們稱它為“雪山之神”。這里盛產蟲草、雪蓮、貝母等名貴藥材。
                      
                      4000米雪線(冰川形成與消融速度相當的地帶)以上群山峭拔,云蒸霞蔚。其中,太子雪山以其巍峨壯麗,神秘莫測而聞名遐邇。早在30年代,美國學者就稱卡瓦格博峰是“世界最美的山峰”?ㄍ吒癫〇|坡的明永冰川綿延11.7公里,平均寬度500米,面積為13平方公里,冰舌(冰川自山谷向下延伸的冰川帶)末端海拔2660米,屬世界罕見的低海拔、低緯度現代冰川。位于梅里雪山東麓的藏族村落雨崩,被人們稱為“世外桃源”,四面群山簇擁,終年白雪皚皚......
                      
                      2017年5月1日,因麗江工作所困,月余未與愛人謀面,更無法與愛人一起享受今年的小長假,甚是思念!于是,電話承諾愛人:“若你能來麗江,我便帶你去咱們早已心馳神往的圣地——梅里雪山”。
                      
                      旅游,一直是我兩的共同興趣。4月30日晚,愛人孤身一人,千里迢迢搭火車直達麗江,一路辛苦不言而喻,甚是感動!一日凌晨,我兩驅車近400公里。自麗江古城出發,沿214國道一路向北,玉龍、哈巴雪山作伴,經香格里拉,繞白馬雪山,過納帕海,入大山里的德欽縣城,若不是指路牌的提醒,我根本不會認為這里就是德欽縣城......導航顯示,飛來寺距德欽縣城僅20公里左右,所以我們并未在縣城停頓,便直搗心目中懸崖峭壁上的飛來寺。不料,由于車速稍快了些,一不小心就駛過了,掉頭行駛數百米處,“吉祥飛來寺”的牌坊已矗立在我們的右前方,進入牌坊便是陡坡,陡坡右側是一整排的轉經筒。車子駛入牌坊十幾米,頓感開車進去屬不敬之舉,于是想把車倒出去,徒步去參觀。由于坡太陡,經過幾個回合的折騰,終于把車倒出了陡坡......兩人虔誠的旋轉著轉經筒徒步下坡約400米,一座金碧輝煌、雕梁畫棟、雄偉壯麗的飛來寺已現眼前,但大門緊閉。我兩也不敢過多打擾,便默默祈福、拍照后匆匆離開了。據說,運氣甚好時可在飛來寺看到“日照金頂”的自然奇觀。
                      
                      時間已是下午4時,因下一目的地是梅里雪山腳下的明永冰川和“世外桃源”雨崩村,距飛來寺不過30公里左右,經與愛人商議,決定繼續前進,今晚進駐明永藏族村。經過近90分鐘的盤山行駛,橫跨金沙江上的“卡瓦格博大橋”,大橋盡頭的指路牌顯示,向左即去雨崩,向右即是明永冰川,左旋右轉,愛人都有些暈車的感覺了,我們終于抵達了明永。由于垂直海拔落差太大,溫差變化也極大,90分鐘前的飛來寺室外溫度還是8度,可此時的明永村溫度已高達25度。耳也聾了,與售票員的正常交流都成了問題,售票員也被我的大聲問詢給逗笑了......售票員告訴我,今天太晚已經進不了景區,只有在明永住下,明早8點才可以進入冰川景區。
                      
                      次日7時醒來,我便爬到仁欽酒店樓頂,真沒想到,昨晚來時還細雨霏霏,今早卻霞光萬丈,卡瓦格博的神秘面紗也被清晨的陽光輕輕撩開了,近在眼前,莊重肅穆,美輪美奐。村落里綠樹成蔭,鳥語花香,牛鈴聲聲......恬靜、舒適、和諧、安逸!
                      
                      我兩屬今天第一批進入景區的游客,乘電瓶車行駛5公里,徒步攀登3公里,均沿藏民們轉山的路線攀登,沿途古木參天,壁立千仞,遍山經幡迎風招展,棧道兩旁,燕尾蘭姹紫嫣紅,競相怒放,躲不開的太子雪峰總在你的眼前搖曳,時而云遮霧罩,時而明亮清麗,山接云天,大氣磅礴,攝人心魄......
                      
                      經過近3小時的攀登,我們終于來到了太子廟休息點。據景區救援人員介紹,再30分鐘的路程我們就可以到達明永冰川的第一個觀景臺了。他還說,前三天這里一直都是陰雨連綿,你們運氣真好!今天終于為你們晴開了,卡瓦格博也為你們露出了尊容......有些游客來幾次都看不到卡瓦格博!真誠感謝上蒼的恩賜!
                      
                      觀景臺共四個,愈往上棧道愈是陡峭,但距離雪山冰川也越近,也更能親近雪山冰川。我們在不同的觀景臺分別遇上了來自德國及我國北京、青島、深圳、西藏等地的游客,大家相互幫忙拍照,雖有幾分疲憊,但難掩心中的興奮,甚是歡愉!雪山冰川相映生輝,晴空陰涼相映成趣,不虛此行的情緒洋溢在每一張臉上......
                      
                      與愛同行,真愛永恒!
                      
                      

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